Knitting Technology
Posted by Textile MBSTU on Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Under: Apparel / Fabric
Knitting Technology
The art of knitting has changed over the years. From hand knitting to hand operated machines to computerized machines, the journey is a long one.
Evolution of Hand Knitting
The original art of knitting involved the use of needles which were made of bone or wood. Dating back into prehistoric times, a primitive hand-knitting technique was reproduced using one needle and short pieces of fiber. Then came the use of two needles, which gradually moved to three, and then to four needles, and so on. Slowly, the shape and size of the needle changed and wooden needles were replaced by smooth metallic ones. Evolution has been and is still ongoing from hand knitting using one to two needles to peg frames, knitting frames, circular sock machines, and home knitting machines. Today, hand knitting still remains a hobby of womenfolk in many parts of the world. Originally, hand knitting was entirely confined to making socks and stockings. Now, all sorts of garments like cardigans, sweaters, skirts and shirts are hand-knit.
Evolution of Knitting Machines
The first knitting machine invented in the 16th century by William Lee was meant to produce 8 loops per inch. Lee himself modified his machine within 9 years to produce 20 loops per inch. After this invention, the art of knitting was gradually taken over by guild-organized cottage industries. It is interesting to note that even today, the basic technology of the modern knitting machines is similar to Lee's machine. The full-fashioned machine was invented in 1864 by William Cotton of Leicestershire, England. He used the same bearded-spring needle which was a part of the original model of Lee.
Automatic or power-operated knitting machines came into existence in the 19th century. Gradually, this upgraded to power-operated V-Bed, and circular knitting machines. Subsequently microprocessor-controlled knitting machines also came into existence.
Computerized Knitting
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) have revolutionized the knitting industry. The 1970s saw the introduction of CAD/CAM systems. Designers used the CAD system to create product designs and these were transferred to CAM machines to manufacture the final product. CAD/CAM technology replaced the mechanical patterning and shaping devices on machines with electronic controls. These systems enabled companies to respond quickly to changes in demand. New designs could be set up using CAD and quickly produced on the CAM machine. Though manually operated flat and V-bed knitting machines are still used, computerized technology is also preferred.
Initially, this system was expensive and only the major companies could afford it. However, in the 1980s and 1990s CAD/CAM fell in price and even the small and medium sized companies invested in this new technology. The introduction of this technology enabled companies to work globally, and on a fast scale.
Introduction of Wholegarment Knitting
Side by side with the CAD/CAM knitting technology, the process of whole garment knitting was introduced. Cutting fabric into shapes and then stitching the pieces together to create garments has been in practice since the eighteenth century. In the 1970s companies researched more efficient technologies which could produce a complete garment in one process without the need for sewing. Without the loss of fabric associated with cut and sew techniques, garments could be knitted quickly. This was the "Whole garment Technology" which was further developed in the 1990s by Shima Seiki of Japan. Shima Seiki achieved this advancement in knitting technology by developing the slide needle. The slide needle was the result of research of the latch needle and the knitting process.
Wholegarment knitted clothes provide greater comfort than cut and sew clothes. The absence of seams means that the garment can fit close to the body and stretch more easily. Wholegarment machines are also capable of producing complex designs. 2D knitted fabric is replaced by 3D knitwear, shaped and pleated as required.
Digital Printing on Knitted Fabric
With the advance of science and technology, textile printing on knitted garments has been dominated by screen printing technology. Advances in digital inkjet printing technology during the 1990's and early 2000's have resulted in knitting machines that can cost-effectively transfer designs directly from a computer and print onto fabric.
The art of knitting has changed over the years. From hand knitting to hand operated machines to computerized machines, the journey is a long one.
Evolution of Hand Knitting
The original art of knitting involved the use of needles which were made of bone or wood. Dating back into prehistoric times, a primitive hand-knitting technique was reproduced using one needle and short pieces of fiber. Then came the use of two needles, which gradually moved to three, and then to four needles, and so on. Slowly, the shape and size of the needle changed and wooden needles were replaced by smooth metallic ones. Evolution has been and is still ongoing from hand knitting using one to two needles to peg frames, knitting frames, circular sock machines, and home knitting machines. Today, hand knitting still remains a hobby of womenfolk in many parts of the world. Originally, hand knitting was entirely confined to making socks and stockings. Now, all sorts of garments like cardigans, sweaters, skirts and shirts are hand-knit.
Evolution of Knitting Machines
The first knitting machine invented in the 16th century by William Lee was meant to produce 8 loops per inch. Lee himself modified his machine within 9 years to produce 20 loops per inch. After this invention, the art of knitting was gradually taken over by guild-organized cottage industries. It is interesting to note that even today, the basic technology of the modern knitting machines is similar to Lee's machine. The full-fashioned machine was invented in 1864 by William Cotton of Leicestershire, England. He used the same bearded-spring needle which was a part of the original model of Lee.
Automatic or power-operated knitting machines came into existence in the 19th century. Gradually, this upgraded to power-operated V-Bed, and circular knitting machines. Subsequently microprocessor-controlled knitting machines also came into existence.
Computerized Knitting
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) have revolutionized the knitting industry. The 1970s saw the introduction of CAD/CAM systems. Designers used the CAD system to create product designs and these were transferred to CAM machines to manufacture the final product. CAD/CAM technology replaced the mechanical patterning and shaping devices on machines with electronic controls. These systems enabled companies to respond quickly to changes in demand. New designs could be set up using CAD and quickly produced on the CAM machine. Though manually operated flat and V-bed knitting machines are still used, computerized technology is also preferred.
Initially, this system was expensive and only the major companies could afford it. However, in the 1980s and 1990s CAD/CAM fell in price and even the small and medium sized companies invested in this new technology. The introduction of this technology enabled companies to work globally, and on a fast scale.
Introduction of Wholegarment Knitting
Side by side with the CAD/CAM knitting technology, the process of whole garment knitting was introduced. Cutting fabric into shapes and then stitching the pieces together to create garments has been in practice since the eighteenth century. In the 1970s companies researched more efficient technologies which could produce a complete garment in one process without the need for sewing. Without the loss of fabric associated with cut and sew techniques, garments could be knitted quickly. This was the "Whole garment Technology" which was further developed in the 1990s by Shima Seiki of Japan. Shima Seiki achieved this advancement in knitting technology by developing the slide needle. The slide needle was the result of research of the latch needle and the knitting process.
Wholegarment knitted clothes provide greater comfort than cut and sew clothes. The absence of seams means that the garment can fit close to the body and stretch more easily. Wholegarment machines are also capable of producing complex designs. 2D knitted fabric is replaced by 3D knitwear, shaped and pleated as required.
Digital Printing on Knitted Fabric
With the advance of science and technology, textile printing on knitted garments has been dominated by screen printing technology. Advances in digital inkjet printing technology during the 1990's and early 2000's have resulted in knitting machines that can cost-effectively transfer designs directly from a computer and print onto fabric.
source ;http://www.theknitwear.com/knitting-technology.html
In : Apparel / Fabric